Today, we're going to explore the origins of our favorite fabric: wax print! Who doesn't know it these days? This fabric with infinite, unique, and very original patterns, a waxed cotton on one main side and traversing the underside, using very delicate techniques that the Indonesian women used, but we'll talk about this technique in detail later. For now, let's delve into this little story. Are you ready, dear readers? Then let's go!
A Brief History: Origins of Wax Print - African Fabric
Quick summary: So here's how it began. In the 17th century, the Dutch arrived and colonized Indonesia (Southeast Asia). Indonesian women designed a fabric called batik, a cultural and symbolic item for the people. The Dutch found this creation magnificent, so they were inspired by it and created wax print, which by the way means "cire" in French, translated from English.
As we can see, wax print is quite similar to Javanese batik.
At a certain point, our dear Indonesians revolted, and the Dutch moved down to the coasts of West Africa. This is how wax print arrived on the lands of the African continent.
When the inhabitants discovered this new fabric, wax print made a great sensation among everyone.
Everyone wanted it, across all social classes. It's important to know that this waxed cotton is a high-end product, dear readers. :)
Being a high-end product upon its release and even to this day, wax print involves more than 26 steps for its creation, from design and waxing to washing. We'll look at the steps a little further down, so stay with me :)
Behind each motif lies a story: family, political, or sociocultural. For its launch and commercialization, the Nana Benz, the first female entrepreneurs and millionaires of Africa, specifically from Togo, created a story for each design.
Remember, at that time, women didn't have the right to expression, so wearing clothing with motifs telling a little story could only be the absolute best!
Today, culturally and not only, for everyone, wax print is African, but it actually comes from Holland, well, almost: inspired by Javanese batik, remember. Even if wax print is not of African origin, over the years it has become a real heritage of the continent. Africa represents only 10% of wax print manufacturing. Among African fabrics, we find:
Wax print
Batik
Kente
Bogolan
Kente is mainly designed in Guinea, woven thread by thread to form a large, slightly thick and rigid loincloth.
Bogolan, a product with symbolic design, originates from Mali but is also manufactured in countries like Senegal and Ivory Coast.
Widely used in African decoration today, bogolan is an African fabric that stylists and designers love to showcase by working it into traditional wedding dresses, pants, jumpsuits, scarves, and many other creations.
How is real wax print made? Here are 5 key steps
Design: First, there's the design, drawings of flowers, animals, or special shapes that are exported digitally.
Printing roller: Once the design is digitized, it's transferred to a copper printing roller, then dipped in wax and applied to both sides of the cotton fabric.
Indigo bath: After waxing, the cotton is immersed in an indigo bath for 2 hours, which allows the white parts that do not have wax to be intensified with a deep blue.
Wax removal: In this step, the wax is removed using a wax breaking machine, which gently removes it while shaking it in a large vat.
Color and washing: Once dry, a first layer of color is applied by partially removing the wax, then the final layer of color is applied.
I've only mentioned the main ones, but know that each of them requires a long and delicate process. Wax print is made in over 26 total parts with immense care.
Who are the Nana Benz?
The Nana Benz, a group of about ten women who commercialized wax print in Africa, specifically in Togo. Very well known in Togolese and African cultural history and heritage, they were the first female millionaires in Africa and a huge symbol of female emancipation.
What can you do with wax print?
Used to make many creations such as dresses, loincloths, and many other outfits and accessories...
Sold in pieces of 5 meters, 45cm or 6 yards, which allows for making a top, a scarf, and a loincloth or a skirt.
Did you know? The English also tried to manufacture Wax print, but unfortunately it was not as successful as the Dutch version. (Inspired by Indonesia)
Most famous wax print brands:
The Dutch brand Vlisco is by far the most famous and sold worldwide, followed by Hollantex, Sotiba (a Senegalese company), and also Sobetex (Beninese).
Conclusion:
Certainly, wax print fabric is not of African origin, but all its history and development come from there. Remember the Nana Benz, our famous millionaires; they are the ones who gave life to the stories behind each design, and that's what made the fabrics successful thanks to their African storytelling. During traditional ceremonies, women and men adorned themselves by wearing their most beautiful outfits with infinite and diverse biographies.
Thank you for taking the time to read this article. I invite you to share it with your loved ones and on social media, tagging kaysolcouture.fr
See you next time for a new topic ;)
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